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crw59@earthlink.net
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 Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:20 pm Post subject: Liquid Cement Question |
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at the end of this review, the use of liquid glue is mentioned as the
best way to work with certain kit pieces.
can anyone elaborate on why? I've never used the stuff and have two
of these kits to build.
Is it used best for long seams?
thx all - Craig
http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rm_5506.shtml |
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eyeball
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 3:47 pm Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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On Nov 11, 10:20 am, "cr...@earthlink.net" <cr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
| Quote: | at the end of this review, the use of liquid glue is mentioned as the
best way to work with certain kit pieces.
can anyone elaborate on why? I've never used the stuff and have two
of these kits to build.
Is it used best for long seams?
thx all - Craig
http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rm_5506.shtml
|
It tends to be a lot less messy, although personally I can't stand the
smell. I do use testors non toxic liquid glue, no nasty smell,
slightly thicker, and almost as strong but has to be ordered from
them, I've never seen it in any hobby shop. For landing gear (on any)
and struts on biplanes I stick with tube glue, sometimes reinforced
with a drop of super glue. |
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crw59@earthlink.net
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:42 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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| Quote: | It works well on long seams, put the two pieces together and leave a tiny
gap and lay a drop of liq. cement and the capilary action will fill the tiny
gap, might have to do a few spots on a long seam. Squeeze the pieces
together and a small amount of plastic will come off the seam. Let dry and
scrape off. Viola! great seams.
Hope that helps, Mark
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thx. how is it best applied between the pieces so no glue gets on the
outer surfaces?
Craig |
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crw59@earthlink.net
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:43 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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On Nov 11, 4:52 pm, Rufus <n...@home.com> wrote:
| Quote: | cr...@earthlink.net wrote:
It works well on long seams, put the two pieces together and leave a tiny
gap and lay a drop of liq. cement and the capilary action will fill the tiny
gap, might have to do a few spots on a long seam. Squeeze the pieces
together and a small amount of plastic will come off the seam. Let dry and
scrape off. Viola! great seams.
Hope that helps, Mark
thx. how is it best applied between the pieces so no glue gets on the
outer surfaces?
Craig
You want to let it flow along the seam from the inside of the join from
an open end. And use clamps - Berna Assemblers are the HOT ticket!
If you do get some under a finger and leave a print, don't touch it
again until it's dry the next day. Then it's easily remedied with
Scotchbrite.
--
- Rufus
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I have always used masking tape. Not good with this glue? Again, how
is it applied? Is there a built in applicator on the lid? Toothpicks?
Craig |
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 1:54 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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Testors Liquid comes in a round bottle (sorry, folks, the square ones
went the way of all things a few years back -- but I keep one and
refill it from the round jobs) with a built-in brush, but it leaves a
swath about 3/16-1/4" wide when you use it as is.
I use it for bulk part attachment as per directions - paint it on both
seams, join them together, and if necessary tape, clamp or bind with
rubber bands. Works fine, but grabs relatively slowly, takes about 30
mins to give a good set and takes about 18-24 hours to totally set up
rock solid.
I use Tenax for fast-attachment joints (applied with a fine
paintbrush) and Tamiya "Orange" for very fast tack and high adhesion;
so far the Tamiya "Green" works for either replacing the Tenax or the
Testors but I am still loyal to the old stuff.
Cookie Sewell |
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Mark M
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:24 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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<crw59@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:9a389a42-ebff-4f2f-a860-3d91cf5c4632@g17g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
| Quote: | at the end of this review, the use of liquid glue is mentioned as the
best way to work with certain kit pieces.
can anyone elaborate on why? I've never used the stuff and have two
of these kits to build.
Is it used best for long seams?
thx all - Craig
http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rm_5506.shtml
|
I don't use anything but Tamiya Liquid Cement in the little square bottle,
works great and doesn't smell as bad as the Ambroid or Tenax. I quit using
tube glue years ago.
It works well on long seams, put the two pieces together and leave a tiny
gap and lay a drop of liq. cement and the capilary action will fill the tiny
gap, might have to do a few spots on a long seam. Squeeze the pieces
together and a small amount of plastic will come off the seam. Let dry and
scrape off. Viola! great seams.
Hope that helps, Mark |
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crw59@earthlink.net
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:47 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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| Quote: | I use Tenax for fast-attachment joints (applied with a fine
paintbrush) and Tamiya "Orange" for very fast tack and high adhesion;
so far the Tamiya "Green" works for either replacing the Tenax or the
Testors but I am still loyal to the old stuff.
Cookie Sewell
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applied with a paint brush? the glue does not harden on the brush?
Craig |
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Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 4:19 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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On Nov 11, 9:47 pm, "cr...@earthlink.net" <cr...@earthlink.net> wrote:
| Quote: | I use Tenax for fast-attachment joints (applied with a fine
paintbrush) and Tamiya "Orange" for very fast tack and high adhesion;
so far the Tamiya "Green" works for either replacing the Tenax or the
Testors but I am still loyal to the old stuff.
Cookie Sewell
applied with a paint brush? the glue does not harden on the brush?
Craig
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Liquid cement is pure solvent. Unlike tube glue, there is no dissolved
plastic to harden, though a small amount of dissolved plastic can be
picked up by the brush and transferred back to the bottle each time
you use it. A nearly empty bottle may be slightly discolored, but the
residue is negligible on the brush. Still, you probably should
dedicate a particular brush to cement rather than one you also plan to
apply paint with.
Gerald Owens |
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Rufus
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 6:52 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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crw59@earthlink.net wrote:
| Quote: | It works well on long seams, put the two pieces together and leave a tiny
gap and lay a drop of liq. cement and the capilary action will fill the tiny
gap, might have to do a few spots on a long seam. Squeeze the pieces
together and a small amount of plastic will come off the seam. Let dry and
scrape off. Viola! great seams.
Hope that helps, Mark
thx. how is it best applied between the pieces so no glue gets on the
outer surfaces?
Craig
|
You want to let it flow along the seam from the inside of the join from
an open end. And use clamps - Berna Assemblers are the HOT ticket!
If you do get some under a finger and leave a print, don't touch it
again until it's dry the next day. Then it's easily remedied with
Scotchbrite.
--
- Rufus |
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Rufus
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:14 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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crw59@earthlink.net wrote:
| Quote: | I use Tenax for fast-attachment joints (applied with a fine
paintbrush) and Tamiya "Orange" for very fast tack and high adhesion;
so far the Tamiya "Green" works for either replacing the Tenax or the
Testors but I am still loyal to the old stuff.
Cookie Sewell
applied with a paint brush? the glue does not harden on the brush?
Craig
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I prefer to use a paint brush myself - but you may also like one of these:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81778
I turned a friend on to these and he swears by them now.
Liquid glue won't actually harden by itself, I think - it'll just
evaporate. I had some Tenax evaporate right out of the bottle on me
before I could even try it once...I prefer the Testors stuff myself
anyway - longer working time. And clamps, clamps, clamps...
--
- Rufus |
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Rufus
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:14 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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crw59@earthlink.net wrote:
| Quote: | On Nov 11, 4:52 pm, Rufus <n...@home.com> wrote:
cr...@earthlink.net wrote:
It works well on long seams, put the two pieces together and leave a tiny
gap and lay a drop of liq. cement and the capilary action will fill the tiny
gap, might have to do a few spots on a long seam. Squeeze the pieces
together and a small amount of plastic will come off the seam. Let dry and
scrape off. Viola! great seams.
Hope that helps, Mark
thx. how is it best applied between the pieces so no glue gets on the
outer surfaces?
Craig
You want to let it flow along the seam from the inside of the join from
an open end. And use clamps - Berna Assemblers are the HOT ticket!
If you do get some under a finger and leave a print, don't touch it
again until it's dry the next day. Then it's easily remedied with
Scotchbrite.
--
- Rufus
I have always used masking tape. Not good with this glue? Again, how
is it applied? Is there a built in applicator on the lid? Toothpicks?
Craig
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No - liquid glue will seep by capillary action just like mentioned
elsewhere in the thread - and it will dissolve the glue on most tapes
if/when it seeps under them...or worse yet, glue the tape to the model.
Same goes for rubber bands. It will seep along/under anything that
crosses the join.
You really want to use clamps - with proper application you can get the
right amount of glue in the join (again - apply from the inside) to just
make a small bead of plastic mush push out of the outside of the join
when squeezed together hard - don't touch that, and let it dry/set
overnight; then a Flexi-File and/or some Scotchbrite will polish that
bead down so that there's no seam at all. But you need to use clamps.
Berna Assemblers are bar-none the absolute best model building clamps
I've ever used:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=84101
Every time I see a set I buy more of them. The amount of putty I need
to use on a kit is next to nothing now that I use these. Especially on
a quality kit like a Tama-gawa.
--
- Rufus |
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Drew Hill
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:41 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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On Nov 12, 12:47 am, eyeball <eyeball2002...@aol.com> wrote:
| Quote: | It tends to be a lot less messy, although personally I can't stand the
smell. I do use testors non toxic liquid glue, no nasty smell,
slightly thicker, and almost as strong but has to be ordered from
them, I've never seen it in any hobby shop.
|
EWWWWWWW! You _LIKE_ that stuff!?!? I hate it! I can't get it
to work on any type of styrene known to man. The orange stuff
however...
| Quote: | For landing gear (on any)
and struts on biplanes I stick with tube glue, sometimes reinforced
with a drop of super glue.
|
Same here. I've tried it all, including the liquids and stuff and I
keep
coming back to the same damned thing, tube glue! The best one
that I've ever found is actually NOT the Testors red stuff, but the
little
tubes that come with Academy kits! I _LOVE_ the stuff.
And not a damned store in Korea seems to carry it!!!!!!!
Grrrrrrrr.... |
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Don McIntyre
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 2:22 pm Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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I use, almost exclusively, liquid glue (Tenax-7R, or Testor Liquid)
and superglue. For the Tenax I use the Touch 'n Flow applicator as
mentioned above. As much as possible, I apply it to the seam from the
inside and then just hold the part together for a minute or two, and
usually, that's that.
For the Testors liquid glue, using the applicator in the bottle, I
brush the mating surfaces of the parts, let them sit for a few
minutes, apply another coat of glue, then bring the parts together and
either hold them or clamp as necessary. Now comes another use for the
Tenax, wing leading edge and trailing edges. If the seam hasn't glued
sufficiently, take the Tenax and using the Touch 'n Flow, just add a
drop to the part of the seam that didn't stick, let the parts go back
together. You may get a small bit of melted plastic ozzing out, but
after letting it dry for awhile, you can either sand it back, or trim
it with a sharp knife.
HTH |
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Don Stauffer
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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crw59@earthlink.net wrote:
| Quote: | at the end of this review, the use of liquid glue is mentioned as the
best way to work with certain kit pieces.
can anyone elaborate on why? I've never used the stuff and have two
of these kits to build.
Is it used best for long seams?
thx all - Craig
http://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/kits/rm/kit_rm_5506.shtml
|
There are two advantages to liquid cement
-slower drying/setting
-cheaper
The slower drying/setting time is why it is recommended for long joints.
It gives you a chance to properly match the seam over its whole length
before it begins to set. The downside is that it takes so long you
normally must clamp pieces to hold them till it sets.
Now, most of the gel CAs set slower than the thin, fast stuff, so some
folks use that instead of liquid cement. But since the liquid cement is
cheaper, and you use a fair amount on a long seam, I prefer it and
always keep a stock. |
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OM
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:18 am Post subject: Re: Liquid Cement Question |
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On Wed, 12 Nov 2008 03:42:23 GMT, Rufus <not@home.com> wrote:
| Quote: | I prefer to use a paint brush myself - but you may also like one of these:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81778
I turned a friend on to these and he swears by them now.
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....Having worked with capillary tubes before, I'm scared to ask how
you fill these things :-P
OM
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